Amidst the riches of Monte Carlo there is a free jewel. But first, the glitter, Moscow number plates, yachts and man who would be a millionaire:

The high life and high apartments are not necessarily to my liking but the Japanese Gardens designed by landscape architect Yasuo Beppu and, in this expensive and bustling principality, notably free to enter. They offer a quiet reflective space in which to count one’s winnings or mourn losses. There is a photograph of Princess Grace at the entrance, commencing the project in 1964, ¬†photographed rather badly by me but, hey, not every princess looks so stylish wielding a spade.

And down by the beach the waters were clear and warm and full of lucky Russian holidaymakers. And fish.

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